Take 50% African, 40% European, and 10% native American. Mix for 500 years. Add an endless procession of religious orders, throw in oppressive colonisers, and somewhere out the other end pops Carnaval – a mere 4 million people, one-week long street party in a city with a population of 3 million. Go figure.
Room with a view
The street outside
It’s a grand old crumbing city that wears its history like an old car wears scratches and dings – with attitude. And there is plenty of life left in this place – vibrant and colourful, sometimes edgy. Several times our aimless wandering takes us in to shady parts, only for some caring local to urge us back onto the main streets.
The night before Carnaval started…
In the days before carnaval, shops are boarded up, police outposts apparate, local bands practice on the street. We’re ensconced in Hotel Villa Bahia – a gem located right in the centre of the old city, and a haven to escape to and regroup. We’ve been talked out of the madness of the main parade along the beach front, and instead play in endless street parties within the old walls – the ‘bloco parties’. It is an endless riot of colour and movement, song and dance, pulsing rhythms and beats.
Cupcake is doing what cupcakes do best – befriending random locals and bemusing all with her own special salsa moves. The video will tell all 🙂
Next stop Cabadelo, then we’re off to the Caribbean!